Heading north out of Edinburgh we had no plan. We had booked one nights accommodation at Purgavie Farm, a BnB just outside the small town of Kirriemuir and the rest was up to the wind! On booking our accommodation our host Moira informed us that the Glen Isla Highland games were on, we were very excited to have had such luck with timing.
The Glen Isla games are a small local gathering held every Autumn. Held by the beautiful River Isla, the community had put together such a pleasant and festive day. Despite the small size of the games, dancers had come as far as Canada to participate and the hammer throw and kettle ball challenges did not disappoint the idea in my mind of big viking highlanders.
The highlight of the games was undoubtably the kids race. All the local kids were keen to be contending, no matter how small. The littlest were given a head start (with mum or dad in tow) and every little soul was determined to give it all they had! The tough little Scots wouldn’t let a trip or fall hold them back, even elaborate stacks saw the kids get back up and keep running. The sound of laughter was loud and smiles we plastered on the faces of kids and spectators alike.
I was captivated by the simplicity of the affair. There were no mechanic show rides, ‘buy this buy that’ stalls, no junk food or show bags that dominate our local shows. This was clean community fun and competition and it was really nice afternoon.
After a very enjoyable stay and breakfast at Purgavie Farm we continued north through the Cairngorms National Park – one of only 15 National Parks in the UK (which seems like so few to an Australian!).
A tip off from the staff at the visitor centre in Braemar saw us set out for a 4km walk to Lock Callater. Set on private property, this easy walk along a dirt track (closed to public traffic) to the Loch. On walking in, we moved off the track to let a 4WD pass, giving a friendly wave as they went by I found myself waving to a security guard and Rob, Prince Charles!
Back in the warmth of the car, we continued on past the Royal holiday home of Balmoral Castle to Aberdeen aka, the Granite City. Along the way we were surprised to find a viewing spot for salmon jumping up the River Feugh. The funny little things were literally throwing themselves up waterfalls. A bit of a crowd had gathered to cheer them on.
Aberdeen was really nice! With big wide streets, clean granite buildings and a warm sea breeze – we wish it wasn’t only a quick stop over for a nights rest. Reluctantly, we headed out of town and back into the National Park on our way to Inverness. A big Outlander fan I was so excited to be moving through this part of the world. I was surprised to see how different the landscape was from what I saw in the TV show. A little research taught me that many of the iconic scenes had in fact been filmed near Edinburgh and Stirling – much further south. Still, excited none the less I dragged Rob along to Fraser Castle. The castle was gifted to the National Trust and was well preserved with furniture and artworks still in place. The walls were filled with portraits of ladies with dark and very curly hair and even had the fake leg of an ancestral amputee. For those who watch the show or have read the books, you can see where some of the inspiration came from! Outside was a beautiful walled garden, bathing in the first sun we had seen since arriving in Scotland.
The afternoon brought us back to the river Isla – this time at Strath Isla Distillery – home of Chivas Regal. No trip to the Highlands would be complete without a visit to a distillery and we were lucky enough to have the place to ourselves.
Nearing Inverness is the historical battlefield of Culloden, which was the site of the Jacobite defeat in 1745. More than 1500 Jacobites died in less than an hour in contrast to only 50 British deaths. Some say that this battle marked the end of the Highland Clans. It was very peaceful afternoon on Culloden Moor with the sun streaming through the field and difficult to imagine the bloody and desperate battle fought here. A very significant place for Scottish History and a place I found myself filled with sadness for all that Scotland lost on that day.
There is nothing like a little fresh sea air to lift the spirits, and we found a beautiful bay nearby to spend a few moments enjoying the scenery.
We spent the night in an air BnB about an hour North of Inverness – in typical Highland Countryside before continuing our drive, now changing tack south, headed towards the Isle os Skye. The day took us through beautiful sites, past Loch Ness, through some of the “locks’ along the Caledonian Canal and into the western wildness.
We finally pulled up stumps after a big day of scenic driving at a beautiful BnB in a quiet little corner of Lochcarron watching the sun set over the Isle of Skye.
You must be logged in to post a comment.