We had only had 48 hours to spend in the Scottish capital as we passed through on our way up to the highlands, and we tried to make the most of every minute! We had heard so much about Edinburgh and were fortunate enough to have been given some ‘must do’s’ by a friend who had spent time living there. Our days became a The Fringe festival was in full swing and the city was bustling.

The first thing we noticed when looking up at Old Town from New Town was ‘the buildings are so tall!’. What we see today is a dwarf version of how the city once was. Dealing with a population crisis, the city walls were bordered by a lock, so with no room to build out, they built up. These upwards additions were mostly of wood so have since come down. It is said that the idea for modern day sky scrapers comes from Edinburgh.

Perched up on a rocky crag leading down from the Castle to Holyrood Palace, much of this part of town is a UNISCO World Heritage site. It is mostly medieval and looks like a fairy tale! The streets are cobbled, the laneways are narrow and the best way to get around is on foot. Follow the Royal Mile between the Castle and the Palace and be sure to duck down some side alleys along the way. This part of town is the main tourist precinct so avoid eating on the main mile if you are trying to save a few pennies.

With the Fringe Festival on, the crows were bigger than usual – and entertainment was on tap. Buskers lined the Mile and venues offered plenty of music and comedy. Below is a picture of a temporary fence put up on the Mile advertising some of the shows.

Edinburgh Castle was a bit pricey, however despite the expensive ticket price, as home to the Scottish Crown Jewels I was sucked in. It is also an icon of significant cultural importance due to it’s involvement in many historically significant battles. It is Scotland’s most visited tourist attraction and I admit, it was absolutely packed – I felt a bit like I was in a human ant nest. Once inside, the complex houses a concoction of additions and renovations since the 12th century which gives you an amazing insight into it’s long history. I enjoyed the little details of the place such as the Norman archways with chevron details, dates inscribed in the down pipes and the soldiers cemetery for dogs (there is  no cemetery for humans!).

From on top of the castle there are sweeping views of the city across to New Town (which is not no new built in the 1700’s).

After the busy pace of the castle, we escaped to one of the hidden gardens along the Royal Mile. With a bit of research beforehand, you can find these off the alleyways palace end of the Mile. A local tipped us off to Dunbar’s close – we meandered in with some home made Scottish fudge (bought on the mile) to breathe in some fresh air and recharge our energy supply. It was quite the oasis!

Continuing on down this end of town, we dropped in to check out the palace. It was late afternoon by the time we made it down and had missed our chance to venture inside. However a very nice policeman opened the front gate so we could have an un-obstructed look-see.

We looped back around towards New Town up Carlton Hill for some great views back towards the city. It is an easy walk from down town and offers some spectacular views. Free and invigorating I would recommend this climb to all visitors to enjoy the different views across the city. 

As the sun kissed the horizon, we headed back into New Town to soak up some of the festivities of the Fringe. We found St Andrews Square lined with food trucks and set up with bars and stages. Set back from the main strip, the after work crowd seemed to be buzzing in the late afternoon sun.

Old Town takes a life of it’s own after dark. The narrow streets, steep stepped alleyways and old lanterns give a story book feel. Feeling like you’ve fallen down a rabbit hole, you would be forgiven to think you had left modern times behind. It is the perfect setting for a ghost tour and there are many on offer. We did the City of the Dead tour and it was fantastic! It led you into the old vaults under the modern city into a place where the cities most vulnerable once lived, and dies in masses. With poor hygiene, diseases spread as epidemics through these slums before they were sealed off for public safety. It was eerie and dreary indeed!

Before heading home, we found ourselves a viewing spot to watch the nightly fireworks over the castle. We would have loved to have seen the Edinburgh Tattoo however were not quick enough to get tickets. The nightly fireworks is the free perk for those who happen to visit at the same time.

The next morning saw us rise bright and early to try and beat the grey clouds on their way into town. Arthur’s seat is a walk on the fringe of Edinburgh city that offers spectacular views in all directions. The walk is over the craggy headland that watches over the city. The Romans recorded a presence of local inhabitants when they came to the area 2000 years ago.

A very nice walk and a must do as it is free and easy!

Before we left town we stopped in at Victor Hugo Deli for some delicious treats that we took across the road to ‘the Meadows’. We had a last few minutes of sun before the drizzle crept in and it was time to say goodbye. After such a wonderful introduction to Scotland, we excited headed north to the highlands.