The Cook Islands is a bucket list destination in the remote Pacific. Dreaming of white sandy beaches, turquoise water, palm trees swaying in the breeze and the slow friendly pace of island life? Then the Cook Islands is the place for you!

Rarotonga is the largest island and also the capital. It is the remnant of an ancient volcano and the dramatic volcanic peaks form a beautiful vista as you land on what feels like a ‘tiny spot of land’ after flying for hours over the big blue Pacific. The open air airport is casual and the incoming flight from Auckland has you arrive in the middle of the balmy night. Despite the 1am arrival, a local is playing a ukulele at the baggage carousel and people are greeted with brightly coloured and fragrant floral  lei’s.

We were staying in the popular area of Muri Beach at Muri Shell Bungalows which are pretty much little charming shacks in someones back garden. They were simple but clean and had everything we needed including kitchenette. Most of the accommodation on the island (and certainly most of what you can find through a google search) is very expensive however there are more affordable accommodation options if you are willing to forgot the resort experience and dig a little deeper in your searches. We would highly recommend our accommodation at the  Shell Bungalows as it was central, clean and had a Polynesian feel. It was literally next door to one of the most expensive resorts and was about one fifth of the price. Muri Beach is home to beautiful Muri lagoon and a modest string of restaurants and cafes making is a perfect base with plenty of home comforts.

From our base at Muri beach we had some down time to explore the beautiful Muri Lagoon. The calm waters of Muri Lagoon are provided by the barrier reef which surrounds the whole island, the widest point at Muri Lagoon makes it the perfect base for snorkelling boats and tour operators to share the water.

It was quiet during our visit due to the cooler winter weather so we made the most of an afternoon to wade out to the islands to explore and look for creatures in the rock pools.

Getting around to explore the rest of the island is easy. You can either take the bus, you can’t get lost as there is simply only one bus route on the island which runs clockwise and anti-clockwise. We chose to get around by  or scooter and hired one for 3 days. We had a blast checking out the little villages and towns and beach hopping around the island.

The ‘Tsunami Evacuation Route’ signs were a scary reminder of our remoteness and vulnerability out in the middle of the Pacific. I made a mental note to remember them like I would an emergency exit on the plane!

There was one ring road around the island as well as a network of inland roads. Most of the tourist traffic sticks to the coast but it is worth venturing on the inland road to get a better taste of local life and a close up look of the vegetation that covers the lush island.

There are no ‘chains’ in the Cook Islands. No MacDonalds or other takeaway chains and no fancy international hotel chains. It is all local business which adds the the unique character of the place. Construction of a Sheraton Hotel was almost completed before it was abandoned in the 1980’s.It has since been looted and vandalised and there is not much left other than the collapsing shell. It is an eerrie sight and a popular spot for visitors with quad bike tours and paintball games operating within the ruins – very video game-esque!  It is said that if you visit any of the houses on that side of the island they will all have a Hilton toilet.

The West Coast of the Island was scattered with black volcanic rocks which made such a magnificent contrast to the white and blue. It was the perfect spot to perch and watch the kite surfers have a blast in the pacific winds.

Rob spent a morning doing the cross island hike which as the name suggests, crosses over the mountainous centre of the island from one side to the other. A family business called Pa’s Treks operates this guided walk although it can easily be walked independently if desired. The elevation allowed for spectacular views over the island and the surrounding lagoon.

Just north of Muri Beach is The Mooring Fish Cafe which was recommended on Trip Advisor for its famous F.O.B (fish on bread), as the name suggests it’s a fish sandwich. If you find yourself in the area drop in for a bite – its delicious! The view is pretty good too.

Searching for a relaxed spot for dinner we found an old boat serving fish and chips out the back of the fishing club on the outskirts of town, ironically called ‘the flying boat’. We watched the sun set after dinner headed in to the fishing club next door for a drink. The annual tuna fishing competition had just been completed and the winners were being announced at the trophy ceremony. The crowd was happy, re;axed and stuffed full of tuna with hundreds of kilos having been caught. They were friendly and welcoming and asked us to join in with their home cooked tuna feast. Needless to say for the rest of our time on the island the only fish we saw on menus anywhere was tuna.

We had an amazing time on Rarotonga and amongst the exploring we found plenty of time to wander down the lush path to the Lagoon and sit around watching our little baby bump grow 🙂